Saturday 5 May 2012

1990s - The New Vintage



After an age of masculinity and extreme styles, the natural female form was needed again. Hair went from hair damaging perms to natural, wavy hair (although it usually took a lot of styling to make it look ‘natural’) that was made popular by the cast of the TV show Friends. 

The cast of Friends

Simple clothes such as tank tops or crop were worn and it became fashionable to see bra straps and naval piercings showing.  Jewellery was to the minimal and simple, unlike in the ‘80s and ‘natural’ looking make up was popular. Denim was the must have staple for everyone. From the grungy ripped jeans to the Brit-pop jackets, every clique had them.

Kelly Kapowski from Saved by the Bell



Brit pop band Oasis


American power brands embraced these looks. Tommy Hilfiger was the king of street wear, especially after Snoop Dogg’s appearance wearing a Hilfiger jumper on Saturday night live (Hello Magazine, 2012). Calven Klien used shock advertisement and used sex to sell their products with the help of models Kate Moss and Mark Walberg; this was something completely new in the ‘90s and caused a bit of controversy. Sportswear giants such as Nike and Adidas became increasingly popular and worn as a status symbol by famous sports stars such as Michael Jordon who even had a brand of Nike trainers named after him. 


Snoop Dogg on Saturday Night Live

Controversial Calvin Klein campaign







1980s - The MTV generation


The age of Thatcherism and fast forwarding developments in technology gave birth to the Yuppie. The first brick shaped mobile telephone was made commercial in Japan in 1979 (phonehistory, n.d.) and the first home computer system was brought out by Amstrad in 1984 with the first PC in 1986 (Amstrad, 2008). To match this sophisticated technology, Yuppies sense of style was also sophisticated which meant designer suits for both men and women.


Amstrad Home Computer


Then you have the glam stars such as Madonna and the MTV generation when MTV was purely just music.
Both boys and girls had similar hair styles which were held up with masses of hairspray, both short and long styles. Less was a bore, so everything was made to stand out. Clothes were bright coloured, shoulders were accentuated to the max for a masculine style and jewellery was piled on.

Madonna


Front man from Twisted Sister


Leather was a staple piece for most cliques in the 80s. Rock’n’roll stemmed off into the sub-genres hair metal and heavy metal which included bands such as Bon Jovi, and Judas Priest. Even pop stars such as Michael Jackson wore heavy leathers. Studs, zips and fringes were popular features of leather garments at the time. 

Bon Jovi

Judas Priest
Michael Jackson



Friday 4 May 2012

1970s - The Divas


As travelling abroad became more commercial and affordable in the ‘50s and ‘60s (Ron271, 2009), it meant that by the ‘70s people were more educated about the cultures and products from a vast range of countries, so cultural clothing came in to fashion. Kaftans, an Arabic style of robes were incredibly popular especially for the anti-Vietnam war hippies. Yves St Laurent made these loose fitting kaftans and Nehru jackets a mainstream style.

Yves St Laurent in a Kaftan

Nehru jackets


This travelling meant and new-found knowledge of other cultures led the ‘70s into ethnic fashion. Hand-made looking styles were in, from Spanish crochet shawls to Greek Macramé bikinis and bags to the traditional gypsy style cheesecloth tops with puffed sleeves and bell-shaped waist.




This disco fashion brought on the like of the bell-bottom or flared trousers for both men and women, made even more popular by the television show ‘Charlie’s Angels’. Platform shoes were all the range for both genders as well, but mainly for women. The sole could be as high as 4 inches, although 1 or 2 was the standard. Even so, a lot of accidents occurred due to these shoes. It was the first time dress codes were officially brought into clubs due to the huge difference between night and day wear, so it was important to get the dress code spot on to get in. John Travolta helped to make the body-clinging Lycra suites fashionable for night clubs and discos. 

Charlie's Angels in bell-bottom trousers and loosely permed hair


John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever in the classic disco look



Wednesday 2 May 2012

1960s - The Teenagers



The teenage trend dominated the country after the baby boom, and with 70 million teenagers it would be hard to ignore their wants and needs when it came to music, fashion and lifestyle. London, California and New Look were the teenage capitols of the western world, with the rebellious mod vs rocker scene in London and the chilled out surfers of California and skaters of New York.




Swinging London would not have been complete without the sweater dress with the bright and bold matching block colours with tights. The whole of the ‘60s seemed very synthetic and surreal with the launch of the Barbie doll in 1959, the use of PVC in clothing and pop artists such as Andy Warhol, who helped develop the underground scene as he was the manager of The Velvet Underground (The Velvet Undergroud, 2002).


Fashion modal Twiggy helped made bold colours and sweater dresses so successful

Vintage Barbie Dolls

PVC raincoats

The Velvet Undergrounds with Andy Warhol (second from the left)


The ‘60s was a radical change in fashion. Skirts rose above the knee for the first time with the mini-skirt, founded by Mary Quant in 1966, that came up a whole 7-8 inches above the knee. Not only that but it was the first time in history that it was moral for women to wear trousers.


A Mary Quant design


Another major change in the ’60 is that black idols started to come through and racism was on the decrease as segregation became banned and the US passed the Voting Rights Act for Afro-Caribbean people in 1965 (BBC, 2012). Artists such as Diana Ross and Ray Charles are a couple of examples of idols in the black community in the ‘60s.


Diana Ross

Ray Charles


The Mods and Rockers were definitely the main two subcultures to rule Britain who had major rivalry issues which was proved by the Brighton beach riot in 1964 (BBC, 2012). Mods road scooters and were often associated with drugs, wearing skinny suits and overcoats while Rockers, evolving from the Teddy Boys, road motorbikes, wore leather and listened to rock music.


Mods

Rockers

Iconic picture from the "Battle of Brighton" as several mods gang up on a rocker





1950s - The baby boom

As the men returned to Britain after the war, a baby-boom was created which would affect future decades. It took a long time to pick up the pieces after the war as the social and economical impacts it created were huge. Tokens still had to be used for another decade as there was still a shortage of fabrics. People craved fashion though as they were deprived from it in the war, so stores sold affordable versions of the Paris Haute-Couture styles. Marks and Spencer were the best at providing this in Britain as they were considered the best value for money.

1950s US clothing token 


Marks and Spencer Store in Plymouth 1950



After the masculine look of the war, femininity was craved, especially amongst men who wanted to take their roles back in society. The hour-glass and wasp-stung waists were in with the full, mid-calf skirts. This style was called the New Look which was made popular by Christian Dior; Hollywood idols such as Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn helped the feminine look by introducing new make-up styles such as eye-liner and coloured make-up (Luxe, 2008). 

Marylin Monroe and Audrey Hepburn both wore black eye-liner, eye-shadow, shaped eyebrows and plump lips. 


For the first time in history, casual daywear existed for men. The ‘50s was the birth of the true teenager starting off with Teddy Boys. This style consisted of greased back hair and long blazer style coats. The Teddy Boy look was made popular through Rock’n’Roll stars such as Elvis Presley and Tommy Steele who were deemed as youthful and rebellious role models.

A group of Teddy Boys 


Rock idols of the 1950s Tommy Steel and Elvis Presley were some of the first real fashion idols for young men